Aultmore 1990

16 year old Speyside 60.7 % vol

1 of only 571 bottles from cask no. 3641

This is one for those of you who like a heavily sherried style of malt. Aultmore is a rich make which can withstand European oak, although this cask is clearly so active that most of the original character of the whisky is now subsumed beneath flavours coming from the wood. Just look at the colour: deep mahogany, like brown sherry, with curious khaki lights. The nose is immediately treacle toffee and crème brulee, then a trace of pastry becoming tarte tatin, with caramelised apples. There is the promise of brimstone. This is identified when you taste it straight, and emerges big-time when water is added: first match-box striker, then settling down to scorched ironing board, with burn holes, against a background of natural, crystalised brown sugar. A big texture; a taste which is very sweet to start, then bitter-sweet in the long cooling finish. Very little sulphur in the flavour, and only lightly tannic. Drink this with Christmas cake, dark chocolate and black coffee!

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